Julien Dossena is celebrating 10 years at Paco Rabanne in 2023—a decade through which he’s very a lot made his playfully attractive French demi-eighties style accessible to a brand new technology. Of the pre-fall precursor to the Paris runway present he’ll have in a couple of weeks, he stated, “It’s about the best way to discover and proceed to find new interpretations for that girl who’s now the Paco Rabanne woman—the easy, couldn’t-care-less combine and match.”
A big a part of the transformation he’s wrought is bringing a wearable lightness and relevance to the heritage of Paco Rabanne chainmail. Dossena has moved the model away from its ’60s House Age roots, and turned it into a spot to search out party-wear, long-legged velvet boot-cut trouser fits, and Gen-Z catnip equipment.
Within the showroom, Dossena demonstrated his different perception: the issues which seem like whole seems to be typically break aside into separates. The non-scratchy light-weight aluminum chainmail he makes use of now drapes like a slinky material, and could be printed. That’s the case with the tiger-print halterneck ‘costume’ with a double layer of flounces operating round its edges. The trick is that it’s really a high and skirt. Ditto with a very completely different form, in blue, printed with flowers. All these bits could be worn as layering items—tops that may be worn with trousers, denims, leggings, monitor pants, no matter; skirts to be dressed down with sweaters, T-shirts, over pants. This fully is sensible on a sensible, financial stage. Paco Rabanne is “business”—with intelligence.
A Paco Rabanne wardrobe makes statements to be seen—that’s the purpose of the jazzily printed coats that Dossena does, and the electro-shimmery micro chainmail luggage. On a notice extra out-there on this cold- and flu-ridden winter, Dossena additionally had the inspiration of stringing pill-capsules collectively because the hyperlinks on a mesh costume or to dangle on luggage. “Like a treatment,” he joked. No surprises if that concept quickly goes, um, viral.
