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Julie de Libran Spring 2021 Couture

Julie de Libran was just getting her eponymous label off the ground when the coronavirus crisis began. She showed her second collection amidst last January’s couture shows, and less than two months later Paris was completely shut down. A veteran of Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Sonia Rykiel, de Libran was making a specialty of limited…

Julie de Libran Spring 2021 Couture

Julie de Libran was just getting her eponymous label off the ground when the coronavirus crisis began. She showed her second collection amidst last January’s couture shows, and less than two months later Paris was completely shut down. A veteran of Prada, Louis Vuitton, and Sonia Rykiel, de Libran was making a specialty of limited edition and made-to-order party dresses, some constructed with deadstock materials to limit production waste. The pandemic would require a near-term pivot.

She sat out the couture shows last July, taking time to think about how to move forward while maintaining her commitment to responsible creativity. Her return to the schedule today is marked by three special projects, each of which she embarked upon for her collaborator’s savoir faire. The names will be familiar to followers of French fashion: Eres, Charvet, and Goossens are respectively famous for lingerie, shirt making, and costume jewelry. “Sticking together and helping each other out is important, as we’ve all learned in these times,” said de Libran on a Zoom call.

In tandem, she’s adapted her designs with an eye to our more circumscribed lives. There are robes de chambre and slip dresses made with Eres silk for at-home lounging, as well as underpinnings like bodysuits and leggings made with Eres lace that she showed with a coatdress and miniskirt in a menswear check that represent her biggest push into sportswear to date. Charvet’s cotton striping is recognizable on a sundress worn with a shirt jacket over the top and on a boxy-cut shirtdress named Sofia, as in Coppola, a friend of de Libran’s and a woman with an enviable, easy style.

As for de Libran’s party dresses, they may make a comeback in the collection she shows this July. This season, she was focused on versatile two-piece dresses that can be worn separately as tops and skirts, and day dresses in sweet micro florals. On her e-commerce site she’ll sell face masks and carry pouches in prints to match the dresses. “It’s about adapting to what we’re living right now,” she said.

It was too soon for de Libran to say if the arrangements with Eres and co. will be one-offs or long lasting. Either way, the more everyday, approachable attitude of this collection is one she should keep developing.

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