There’s some feeling—although not a consensus—that the autumn 2023 menswear collections are a bit extra right down to earth than in latest seasons, maybe in anticipation of an financial downturn. Eytys co-founder Max Schiller is of the thoughts {that a} recession is probably going, and believes that the concept of paring down might be extra broadly utilized to tradition. “I feel persons are hungry for authenticity and realness,” he mentioned on a name. “No matter occurs economically, with all these faked-up lives on Instagram and the whole lot, I feel persons are fed up, they need actuality now.”
The model delivers that by way of denim with a ’70s aptitude, which relates again to one in every of essential inspirations for the gathering, Rockers, the 1978 film about Jamaican music, and the latest e book detailing its making. (This additionally explains the print of two lovers blowing smoke into one another’s mouths.) Schiller ditched “experimental” washes this season in favor of “primary over-dyes, like one thing you you’ll discover in a classic retailer or one thing you would do your self,” and he utilized them in colours like tobacco, evergreen, and garnet; heat colours as an alternative of the chilly tones he often prefers.
Eytys was launched as a shoe model, and Schiller says {that a} transformed Clark-ish lace-up that’s been structured and given a hoof-like sole, “set the tone for the gathering.” It additionally influenced a few of the garment designs; to be able to make the footwear and boots seen, some pant types have zips that rise from the hem upward some inches. New and vital by way of the portion play Eytys pursued this season had been the tailor-made pants that sat low on the hip and had been paired, for instance, with a bomber/trench midriff jacket.
Denim appears to be the primary thrust at Eytys lately, however jackets will not be far behind. Nylon, distressed leather-based, and embossed vegan leather-based had been labored into numerous basic shapes. The season’s hero items, product of etched leather-based that includes bathing nudes by the Swedish artist Anders Zorn, had been additionally essentially the most private. The unique paintings was made on Dalarö, the island within the Stockholm archipelago the place Schiller’s household lived. He says his mom and grandmother bathed on the similar spot as Zorn’s topics did: “Seeing these etchings was just about like seeing like my childhood in a means.”