What’s that quote in regards to the true check of intelligence with the ability to maintain two opposing views on the identical time? That got here to thoughts whereas Rachel Scott’s newest assortment for Diotima. The hero items from the gathering are the batty riders (Jamaican slang for decent pants) and see-through sequin mesh attire worn sans bra. And but, all of it is refined. Since launching her label, Scott has fused mannish tailoring with a dancehall sensibility, making for fascinating collections and combos which may not at all times be wearable, however are unmistakably her.
“The gathering started with me making an attempt to create the proper batty rider,” Scott says. One pair is hibiscus crimson and created from a woven waxed material and paired with an identical boxy blazer. One other pair is created from the identical particular textile in black, and styled with a mesh collared cardigan and a blazer created from Harris Tweed wool with crochet insets made by feminine artisans in Kingston. A pair of cobalt silk satin shorts is decidedly sporty, whereas a black sequin mesh pair is destined for the membership. My favourite iteration are the batty rider swimsuit pants, the place a pair of wide-leg trousers are damaged up on the higher thigh by a knitted part. Slacks simply acquired thrilling. The swimsuit is accomplished by a boxy jacket cinched in the back and front to provide each a way of ease and a nipped waist. Once more, two opposing views held on the identical time.
Lots of Scott’s designs are, on the floor, audacious. As an illustration, a micro-sequin mesh midi costume is created from orange and blue sequins to provide it a sea-like coloration. It’s all tempered by her tailoring, which nonetheless has cheeky touches just like the aforementioned stealth hotpants and crochet cutouts. The stability of sensuality and traditionalism is a top quality that’s greatest dealt with by feminine designers. Scott’s designs have the identical peculiar whimsy that you just see in a few of Phoebe Philo or Rachel Comey’s designs (not by the way, Scott labored for Comey). That sense of enjoyable was amplified by two particular mannequin muses/dancehall artists who appeared within the lookbook: Dancehall Queen Carlene, and Patra. Some garments you don’t want presence or charisma to tug off totally, however these garments aren’t Diotima.