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Dancing Bulldozers and Noxious Gazpacho: Eating in a Dump With John Waters

Dancing Bulldozers and Noxious Gazpacho: Eating in a Dump With John Waters

What does one put on to dine with John Waters within the Provincetown, Massachusetts, dump?  

That’s the very surreal query myself and 10 winners of the Provincetown Film Society public sale have been pressured to ask ourselves final month after being given the “once in a gastronomical lifetime” alternative to affix Waters for a proper “dumpster dive meal” hosted in a junkyard. This occasion was the marquee merchandise within the Movie Society’s annual on-line winter public sale, provided alongside greater than 100 different objects, largely from native companies. 

The legendary filmmaker has spent the final 58 years summering within the seaside Cape Cod group and, throughout his early days there, turned a frequent customer to the city dump. It was the place all of the hippies went to get furnishings and the issues they wanted, though again then, he informed Self-importance Honest, it “was only a massive pit that you just needed to climb down in and birds would fly down and assault you.” Right now, he laments, “Even the dump is gorgeous. That magic mild that painters have been speaking about ceaselessly? Even on the dump, there’s that mild.”

And over the period of our five-course meal, it couldn’t have been clearer that the cesspit of Waters’s youth has lengthy since been transmogrified right into a tidy little recycling oasis. As if to underscore this level, through the occasion, a Thomas Kinkade–worthy sundown forged an ethereal glow over the rolling hills of manure and compost surrounding our parking zone banquet desk. Whereas the environs could not have been fairly as revolting as Waters remembered, he later informed me over the telephone, ultimately, the entire occasion nonetheless “turned out even higher than I anticipated.” 

By Dan McKeon. 

A tablescape affected by sweet cigarettes and bubble gum cigars (“Solely in America,” Waters remarked with a chuckle) featured lifeless floral preparations by Jennifer Corliss at Backyard Renovations, and damaged pottery from John Derian’s Provincetown storefront, together with a previously $280 cracked vase that the director pushed onto friends all through the night, exclaiming, “In case you simply flip it round, nobody will ever know!”

However what actually elevated the occasion to a brand new stage of camp was chef Jake Hetnarski’s dedication to sticking to the night time’s revolting theme. Waters defined to V.F. that Hetnarski “had began at a restaurant I liked in New York known as Prune the place he would take the worst form of meals and make it look actually hideous, however be good, and you might really eat it.” Following a menu scrawled on soiled scraps of paper, the meal started with two cubes of cheese served on a sprung mouse lure. 

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